AT ‘23 Post 5 - Day 32 (471.6 KM) - What Goes Down Must Come Up

Beauty atop Max Patch

A rousing "whats up?" from Roan Mountain, TN. It's been awhile since I've had time to write a post. I'm almost passed mile 400 and out of NC for good. Another state in the bag! Something that dawns on a hiker around the one month mark is what it truly means to hike mountains everyday. The endless tedium and pain begins to become real. There's always one last mountain before camp. When you're having a nice climb down, you gravely know in the back of your mind that you'll soon be hiking back up another peak. What goes down must come up. I'm sure there's a spiritual lesson somewhere in that phrase. Here's my post Smokies notes.

Fr Apr 7/23 - Day 26 - Standing Bear Farm Hostel (388.7 KM)

I slept in late today, awaking to the “seizure cowbell” of breakfast around 8:15. I came down, scarfed down the big breakfast, chatted for a bit at the kitchen table, then went back to bed for a nap. I slept until 12:30 PM! Shortly after waking the lunch bell was rang, and I diligently went down to get my second meal.

A big meal at Standing Bear

The rain was coming down pretty hard today. A good day to zero. I rotated around the warm kitchen with the others and the cold patio to watch the rain by myself.

I ate some Oreos, drank some Mt Dew, and generally chilled out. In the afternoon I took some time to prepare my next blog post and submit the last. Radish asked me how I manage to write and post on trail, as she has been trying to blog too. I told her to cut out a few hours on a zero to edit, punch up, and post. She said she’d give it a shot. Excited to read the trail from her shoes.

Iceman taking a power nap

When the rain cleared I came out and chilled by the bonfire, breaking up some kindling with the hostel axe. The dogs came out, and Dakota hung out for half an hour as I scratched her down.

Me and Dakota

After another scrumptious BBQ pork dinner, I bummed around. I met a couple of other cats on the property. I pulled out a dreaded lock on one cat, and it ended up falling in love and following me around. Must have been an annoying dread.

I ended up heading to bed early again. I feel super rejuvenated already. If it keeps raining Ill stay one more day and get fully charged up. I plan on pulling big KM once my post Smokies break is done.

Sa Apr 8/23 - Day 27 - Standing Bear Farm Hostel (388.7 KM)

Another rainy day at the hostel. The day started with the usual hiker kitchen party, everyone huddled around the table basking in the heated room.

I spent the morning basically chilling out and eating. The store was resupplied with Oreos, and I bought two sleeves just for myself. A Mountain Dew later, and I was in a post breaky food coma.

Being around people so much, I’ve felt a bit burned out. I took some time to get my next blog post ready. When I finished that I ended up chilling in my bunk and reading Spider Man comics to wile away the time. It was nice to have some introvert time, even if it was surrounded by other hiker trash.

I caught a lucky ride into town with a section hiker at the hostel, the highlight of my day. Otherwise, back at base I resumed my food related coma.

Rainy day in Hartford TN

Dragonfly caught back up today! Her, along with Barbie, Treats, and Ozark’s group. I hadn’t seen them since Georgia back at the Around the Bend Hostel. In the kitchen, Dragonfly maneuvered around the various hikers, helping get the eggs painted for Easter tomorrow. Looks like there’s going to be an egg hunt, along with some other goodies.

Egg decorating by Dragonfly et al

Today was another very chill day. Hopefully my extrovert batteries will be somewhat recharged for tomorrow. It’s going to be Easter; I’ll probably stay for the egg hunt then hit the trail.

Su Apr 9/23 - Day 28 - Groundhog Creek Shelter (400.2 KM)

I woke up to the breakfast seizure cow bell once more. As I stumbled out of the bunkhouse, Rob wished me “happy Easter!”. I returned the salute and headed off for Easter breaky.

After a big plate of eggs and other fixings, the Easter egg hunt began. Dragonfly had painted the eggs the day before. I found a few, but was more interested in packing up and getting going. After 3 days off I needed to finally get back on the trail!

Easter at Standing Bear

It was hard to tear away from the hostel and hikers, but around 10 AM I bid everyone adieu and headed back for the trail. The climb out of Standing Bear was really steep and about 8 KM long. It sucked really bad. To add insult to injury, I was going really slow after 3 days off. I was full of town food and loaded down with extra beer packed out for camp.

I huffed and puffed my way up the mountain, eventually rolling into Groundhog Creek shelter around 4:30. It was another 12 KM (8 miles) to the next water source on my map, and I didn’t feel like pushing it much further after the climb up.

At camp I met Bird and his partner Bean from Oregon. I also met HeckYeah and Special. We chatted and drank our respective packed out beers. Eventually Barbie, Ozark, and Treat rolled in! Then finally SmokingBurrito and Mags came in last. Mags had packed out trail magic for the whole group! We passed around a package of Oreos and other similar hiker garbage. It was amazing and we were really appreciative. Mags has a huge bag! It’s heavy as heck!

The vibes went from real chill to real lit as people rolled in. I started a fire for the group, using what one hiker called my “esoteric Canadian fire building skills”. I wondered what was so esoteric about putting more tinder on the fire, but kept my mouth shut.

Overall a slow but fun day back on the trail. Tomorrow I hope to make it to the next shelter in about 20 KM.

Mo Apr 10/23 - Day 29 - Walnut Mt Shelter (421.3 KM)

Woke up late hoping for the freezing morning to warm up. My tactics failed, and around 7:30 I plunged once more into the icy morning.

Breakfast and banter was… Very profane, dirty, and disturbingly graphic, to say the least. Barbie and this group talk like sailors. It was a hilarious and ball busting morning, of which little bears repeating to any form of reasonable human.

I was the first one to rip away around 9:30. Today was a slow haul in terms of elevation but very cruisy otherwise.

Around 2 PM I made it to Max Patch and was met with some fabulous views. At the summit I ran into the others from the shelter, and we had a dirty hiker party atop Max Patch. Camel from the hostel even caught up and joined us for a bit! Lots of laughs and mature subjects, as usual with these sailors.

A dirty hiker party atop Max Patch

Again I pulled away first, headed for Walnut Mt. Onward and upward. There’s always one last mountain before you get to your shelter or campground. Always one last kick in the ass to make you really earn your dinner.

Rolled into the Walnut Mt Shelter around 6:30 and snagged the last shelter space. I ran into Bird and Bean, and Sun God. Eventually SmokingBurrito rolled in. I tried the Italian Tuna Instant Creations with a Rice Roni and it was one of the best meals I’ve had on trail. I gotta get more of those Tuna Creations packets.

After my amazing dinner I hit the sack early. Tomorrow I’m hiking into the legendary trail town, Hot Springs! Town food, laundry, and a shower, here I come!

Tu Apr 11/23 - Day 30 - Hot Springs, NC (442.4 KM)

Got up, had breakfast with Bird and Bean, and hit the trail around 8:45. 20.5 KM (13 miles) to Hot Springs.

It was a mainly downhill day, with only a couple of hours of ascent. I managed my water smartly as per Stairmaster’s recommendations. Before heading up a hill I drank a lot, leaving around 1.5L left for the ascent. Then I’d drink that water as I climbed, and when I emptied out near the top would refill at the next strategically planned water source. Keeps it lighter uphill, always a blessing.

After three rounds of smart water tactics, and about 2 hours of descent, I noticed something felt weird on my pack. I reached around my bag with my right hand to feel around, and immediately realized with grave certainty that my water filter was missing. When I go downhill I usually speed up to a light jog. Today, with town within striking distance, it was closer to a run. Sprinting down the hill with a half empty soft bottle, my filter must have flopped out in my rush. I actually remember hearing a watery “thunk” noise as I jogged, but I hear that a lot as water splashes around in my clean bottle.

I stopped for a moment to think about my options. Pretty much no water left; just a few sips in my clean bottle. 10 KM in, and another 10 KM to go before Hot Springs. Luckily I’m going into town; if I was days from an outfitter, I would be forced to go back and grab my filter. I decided to at least check if the filter was close, and started backtracking up the AT. After 15 mins I ran into a group that said they saw my filter… 3 miles (4.5 KM) back up the mountain! 6 extra miles, or 2 - 3 hrs more uphill, for a $50 filter. Not worth my time or the pain in my legs. So I cursed myself for losing the filter, thanked the trail gods I was within range of an outfitters, turned back around, and headed in for town proper.

In Hot Springs I checked into Elmer’s Sunnybank Inn, a historic building that’s been around since the 1840s. Elmer was very friendly, showing me around the inn and giving me the tour. Apparently it was used by both sides in the civil war as a hospital, hence why it never got burned down or destroyed otherwise. I ended up in the same room that Earl Shaffer, the first AT thru hiker, slept in on both of his hikes. Very lucky and inspiring! So nice to get a private room for $35 too. Usually you pay more for a bunk room shared with 20!

The Earl Shaffer room

Hot Springs is a quaint, cute little town that the AT travels directly through. This is the first time that I haven’t had to catch a shuttle in, as the trail literally goes through downtown. It seems rafting, backpacking, nature, and backcountry are the name of the game here. I took a shower, got my laundry in, and headed to resupply and regear.

The AT sidewalk going through Hot Springs

At the Outfitters I picked up some camp fuel and a new filter. I’m thinking about getting new shoes; my feet are definitely starting to feel cramped in my current runners. Trail related swelling. Maybe I’ll swing by tomorrow.

I went down to the local brewery, Big Pillow Brewing, for a drink. The beer was good, but I feel like the Lazy Hiker in Franklin set a high bar. I had the greasiest quesadilla I’ve ever ate and a “gringo” taco. After some food and beer I hit Dollar General to resupply. It was a bit picked apart, clear that every hiker coming through town was resupplying there. Luckily I scavenged out 4 days of food, settling for Folgers instant coffee, Rice Roni, and other various concessions.

A relevant selfie from the bar

I went back to the inn, got my resupply packed into my bag, took care of some other chores, and headed back across the street to the Smoky Mountain Diner. At the diner I ran into Barbie, SmokingBurrito, et al. Burrito told me he found my filter, recognized it, and packed it out! I was blown away! Wish I hadn’t already picked up a new filter, but now I had good incentive to buy the new shoes I was eyeing. Have to send the filter back home, so I can ship my old shoes and some other junk like my ice spikes back now too. The trail provides!

Barbie, context intentionally not provided

After a hilarious dinner with Barbie and their motley crew, I ended up heading back to the inn to nurse my food coma. Some Flight of the Conchords and toenail trimming highlighted my night before bed.

Tomorrow I think I’ll nero in town, then hit the trail again. I took too many zeroes at Standing Bear, so I think I should try to crush some miles tomorrow. Next week I can take another zero once I’ve earned it.

We Apr 12/23 - Day 31 - North of Pump Gap Trail (449.3 KM)

My first month into the trek! It’s been amazing so far. I found a scale at the inn; I’m down 20 lbs in 31 days! Pretty much exactly what I was hoping for. In 6 months I should be a healthy weight again.

I went back to the Smoky Mountain Diner for breaky and ran into Bird and Bean. We looked at a hanging elevation map of the full AT on the wall as we waited for our table. The trail really flattens out in Virginia! I hope to start making some big miles by then.

I ordered way too much food; chicken friend steak with biscuits and gravy, home fries, and an order of French toast. I asked the waitress if I would win a prize if I could eat it all in one sitting, and she said she knew better than to making an eating bet with a hiker.

Breaky

I chatted with Bird and Bean about Oregon and their plans for when they get off trail. Maybe law school for Bird. Behind us was Barbie and their whole group, just finishing off as we were starting. I caught up with them a bit too. Rowdy breaky.

After breakfast the others went to do their chores, and I followed suit. I bought some new fancy laceless Salomon trail runners from the outfitters. My feet are a half size bigger already. Walking around in the store I felt tremendous relief in the new sneakers. I swang by the Laughing Heart hostel to pick up my filter from SmokingBurrito. Thanks a ton for picking it up for me man! Then I went back to the inn to get my first shipment back to Shawn handled, including the new filter I no longer needed.

The post office here closes from 12 - 1:30. I guess the sole clerk there needs to eat lunch eventually. With an hour and a half to kill, I worked on my blog entries, replied to some emails from followers, and spent some introvert time with a beer on the swinging chair outside the inn.

I was a little drunk heading to the post office around 2, but I made it and successfully shipped off the old shoes, new filter, Bose earbuds, sleeping bag liner, and ice spikes. All stuff I would no longer need. The weight off my back and extra space is much appreciated.

I hit the trail around 3, still sporting a mild buzz from earlier. It was a big climb, and since I neroed I would be only doing low KM. On the way up I passed Churro and EarlyBird slack packing their way down. They said I had a tough climb coming! Great. I always forget about the slack packing option. I should try that next opportunity I get.

Around 7 I found a nice spot to wild camp by myself, just north of Pump Gap trail. I pulled out my tent and got setup, having only used it once before on this trip. I’ve been a shelter hopper so far, what can I say?

I cooked dinner, drank my packed out beers, and listened to audiobooks to pass the time. It was nice having an evening totally alone for a change.

It was hard to leave Hot Springs early, but I can’t justify another zero after Standing Bear. It was an incredibly hiker friendly town. Tomorrow I hope to pump out a bigger day. The elevation map for the next section up to Erwin looks like bit of a rollercoaster. Legs, don’t fail me now.

Thu Apr 13/23 - Day 32 - South of Big Butt Mt (471.6 KM)

Awoke to someone yelling “burning daylight!” as they hiked passed my wild spot at 7:30. Way to call out my sleep in, random hiker!

I got packed up quickly and hit the trail. Onward and upward. Big climbs today, as usual. Around 12 I ran into Trail Boss and Double Back. I took my mountain break and bantered with them a bit. Trail Boss told me a disconcerting story regarding her platonic hiking partner Blaze and a bottle of lube. It was hilarious and disturbing. I’ll leave it at that. I was also happy to hear that Doubleback managed to find the heartwarming note her sister, Reststop, left for her in a ziplock before Standing Bear. I might have perused it on my way through. It was wholesome.

At lunch I ran into Gadget, Special, Taric, and Kaylee. We chatted for a bit, ate, and pushed on. Around 5 PM I ran into Taric and Kaylee’s wild camp spot, and caught them in their new favourite hobby: having a pre-dinner snack. Gotta get through to dinner somehow.

I decided to push on and ran into some surprise trail magic hosted by Porkchop and his brother Applesauce. I ate 3 hotdogs, took a whole bag of butterfingers (thanks guys!), drank 5 beers and packed one out for camp. Porkchop hiked the AT a few years back and is paying it forward now. Great guys! I thanked the Trail Gods when I ran into them; I had miscalculated and needed one more night of food. I was getting concerned my last day would be a hungry one. Between the beer, hotdogs, and full bag of Butterfingers, I hit the jackpot!

Me, Porkchop, Applesauce, and Tank

I pushed on late after my dinner around 6. I staggered slowly after the beers, praying for a good wild campsite. Around 7:30, I started getting worried I wouldn’t find a flat spot to sleep. I mustered all my faith and kept pushing. Just as I was hitting my cutout point before sunset, I found a site. Praise the Trail Gods! Lucky again. Claire and James from Ireland were already there, and we chatted for a bit as I hastily made camp.

We gossiped a bit about visas and getting into America. Apparently it would cost them $1000 more if they wanted to extend their time here. Yikes! I warned them about the poison ivy that had been coating the trail recently. Tomorrow in the daylight I’ll show them what to look out for.

Tonight I’m sleeping in the shadow of Big Butt Mt. Yes, you read that right. Tomorrow I ascend Big Butt. I’ve been joking with other hikers that the mountain was actually named after me and my giant arse. Let’s see if my namesake mountain is a rough one.